It seems that people who left from Japan don't like to stay away from this country for too long... JP decided therefore to come for short Holidays (3 weeks and a half only) during Christmas / New Year 2003-04. And the day following his arrival, we directly left for Kiso Valley!

Kiso Valley (木曽谷) is located north of Nagoya, in Nagano-ken. When voyagers were taking weeks to travel from Edo (Tokyo) to Kyoto, one of the main road, the Nakasendo (中山道), was going through the Kiso Valley (the other important one, the Tokaido - 東海道 - was following the east shore of the island). Some small towns have been kept as they were looking hundred years ago, in an impressive effort of all the inhibitants. Tsumago and Magome are of the 69 way stations (post towns) of the Nakasendo, which were build to ensure safety of the travellers. Since the Daimyo (ancient warlords) were required to spend alternate years in Edo, to prevent them plotting rebellion, this road was always busy.

The most preserved of the towns in Kiso Valley, and with the oldest buildings. Strict rules apply there: old houses are not destroyed, nor sold to people from outside the valley. And all electrical poles and cables have disappeared - a very unsual sight in Japan!

After leaving Tsumago, we reached Magome located a little souther. Since it was already late, we just have dinner at our minshuku, which was located in the middle of the village. And we celebrated the Escalade, a traditionnal event in Genève, buy breaking and heating the famous marmite en chocolat! And finally, had a small walk in the middle of the night... in yukata.

For travellers journeying to Edo, Magome signaled the start of the steepest and most arduous sections of the whole road. Rebuilded after a fire in 1895 in the style of traditional wooden and plaster buildings, Magome displays a 600-meters long main street, with the old buildings serving as eateries, inns and the of course omiyage (souvenir) shops. Magome seems more at ease with itself and a little less artificial than Tsumago. At the same time, the town is more lively, and probably a better place to overnight.

On our way back, we stoped at this spot, where a beatiful river can be seen. Very similar to Nagatoro in Chichibu, by the way...

Finally, a picture taken by Cédric, without any treatment!

Big contest: find a title for this picture!