Okukinu

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Okukinu is located in the mountains of Tochigi-ken, close to the border with Gunma-ken and Fukushima-ken. The area, which lies between Nikko-Yumoto and Yunishigawa, is famous for its "hidden onsen". The trip, which was undertaken while Sandrine (from Canada) was in Japan, started from Meotobuchi Onsen.

 

First Visit (04/09/25)

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Meotobuchi Onsen

This is as far as you can go in the valley by car. There is only one (big) hotel in Meotobuchi, which offers a large number of mixed outside baths. After a couple of hours in the car, we really were looking forward to dip in the hot water.

 


The baths are located just next to a beautiful river. Although it was appealing to try to bath in that river, we had to refrain both because its access was restricted... and its temperature obviously too low!

 

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Hatcho-yu

From Meotobuchi, we catched a bus to reach our ryokan (Nakako & Cedric decided to walk the 50-minutes hike). Although the ryokan was completely full - about 120 guests for 35 rooms - we never had the impression of a crowded place, and really could enjoy the rustic area. See the map of the ryokan on the right...


We almost immediately reached for the mixed outside baths. Four baths - one unappealing large one, one very small, one medium-sized with a beautiful view on a waterfall and a small one located just at 3 meters from the top of the waterfall.



Sandrine was much more confident than I would have expected!

 

Of course, Cedric and I had no problem and knew exactly how to behave properly in the bath!

 

With no car to drive, it was really appealing to drink until late, and enjoy several night bathing!


 

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Kani-yu

A 10-minutes walk - in the direction of the mountain - brought us to another ryokan, Kani-yu.


 

This large ryokan, which was recently renovated, has an incredible number of outside baths! It was naturally that we stopped there for some soaking...

 

 

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Nikkozawa

Nikkozawa ryokan is the fartest in the mountain, and unlike the previous ryokan, does not offer any bus transportation. It is a very rustic place, with only two tinny baths - one of them might be even tap water, as the water seemed really plain.


I was quite annoyed the the unfriendly welcoming received there. When I asked - after the bath - to have a look at a room (it was 10 am, and obviously all customers had left the hotel), the staff only was able to say dame, dame (impossible). After asking the reason why such small request could not be granted, the only answer given was (anyway, this is not a good place for you, as you have to walk to come here). I was really surprised, but promised the guy that I will let people know about the welcoming received there...